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MARTIN NIKLAS WIESER

AW 2015/16 LOOK BOOK

Photos Alexandre de Brabant

Styling Erik Raynal

Hair Franziska Presche

Make-up Marianna Serwa

Models Jesse at Tomorrow is another day, Zoe at TUNE Models and Malik at Modelwerk

Textile design Nadine Goepfert

Working to draw attention to industrial processes and marketing rules, Wieser uses run-of-the-mill production methods, such as silk screening and laser-cutting, to show easy step, mass-mar-ket production cycles that exclude the ornate embellishments and luxury refinements of the haute couture or artisanal fashion industries. Instead, Wieser engages with the design language and materiality of the everyday product world: Bauhaus shower curtains, IKEA dishwares, and commonplace utilitarian fabrics. These items are simply made, in order to capture the widest possible market and remain affordable. In effect, they become powerfully ubiquitous – a charac-teristic antithetical to the language of runway and editorial fashion design. Quick and efficient production belies Wieser’s process of conception, and these accessible meth-ods further an anti-elitist perspective, relating more intimately to the social and economic reality of the designer and his consumer. Denying seductive manipulations of seasonal trends, Wieser embraces both gender fluidity and atemporality in his designs, while critiquing these complex mechanisms of mass-marketing that further this binary and accelerated consumerism. Riffing off the “shrink it and pink it” mantra created by marketing experts to capture female con-sumers – a practice running rampant in the form of smaller pink variations of tool kits, Gillette razors, and football jerseys – Wieser explores the prescribed pink and blue colour dichotomy, highlighting its arbitrariness by re-randomizing its coding system.

In a room of garments and objects that are bound neither to connotations of time nor gender, new possibilities for movement and playfulness emerge. It is a situation of ideals, imagining space where the consumer may fully belong and embody the environment they consume, as the video work Pink or Blue (direction: Alexa Karolinski; sound: Elisabeth Wood) suggests. It proposes an alternative, a smooth and muted utopia that is not separate from the product world, but rather finds itself a peaceful place within. Its glassy and natural sounds radiate into the room, onto the subjects, and then garments, objects and surface here too, without hierarchy and with homogeneity, in the space of a margin on the edge of the mass.

Text: Kate Brown

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